How To Fit & Install The YZF-R125 Fairing Kit: A Guide
Aftermarket fairings for the Yamaha ZF-R125 can be picked up at an affordable price.
Puzzling the pieces together at home is not so straightforward. But with the right tools, and using this simple guide, you’ll be back on the road with your new bodywork in no time.
Here’s our detailed step-by-step guide to installing your new fairings.
Video guide:
Components you’ll need:
20 x fairing bolt
[overall length: 19mm, thread length: 15mm, type: M5]
20 x nylon washer
[head diameter: 13mm, inner diameter: 6mm, thickness: 1mm]
9 x push rivet
16 x self-tapping screw
[overall length: 20mmm, thread length: 16mm, diameter: 5mm]
23 x small self-tapping screw
[overall length: 12mm, thread length: 9mm, diameter: 4mm]
8 x metal penny washer
[outer diameter: 20mm, inner diameter: 6mm, thickness: 2mm]
14 x chimney nut
5 x small chimney/capture nut
1 x dome nut
[type: M5]
8 x small nylon washer
(for nose cone infill & tank nut)
4 x dome head allen bolt
(for blanking plates & dash infill)
[overall length: 28mm, thread length: 24mm, type: M6]
1 x dome head allen bol
(for seat cover + 2 extra for the stock pillion seat)
[overall length: 25mm, thread length: 20mm, type: M8]
1 x hex bolt
(for speedo guide)
[type: M8]
1 x screen bolt kit
- 6 x rub nut (optional with screen – comes in its own set)
- 6 x bolt
- 6 x washer
- 1 x mudguard plate
- 4 x dome bolts
- 4 x dome bolts
- 2 x brackets
- 4 x M6 dome bolt
Tools you’ll need:
1 x scalpel or pin vice
1 x Phillips screwdriver
1 x allen key set
Fitting your YZF Fairings:
Check all the bolt holes in your new fairings are the right size to slide bolts through. If you have difficulty getting your bolts in, gently expand the holes with a pin vice or a scalpel. Be careful not to scratch the fairing.
Align both sides of the tail unit with the end cap. Bolt them down at the rear of the panels with two Phillips-head self-tapping screws and nylon washers. This will hold the panels in place while you locate the rest of the rivets and screws.
Slide the tail unit tabs underneath the plastic undertray. Attach them with push rivets. Use a flat-sided tool such as a screwdriver to push the rivets into place.
It can be useful to get an extra pair of hands to hold the two tail panels together while you secure them with the first push rivet. The second rivet should be easier to get in.
Fix the panels to the bracket underneath the pillion seat with two self-tapping screws and nylon washers.
Insert two self-tapping screws and nylon washers at the front end of the tail panels.
Use two bolts with penny washers in the holes next to the battery tray to secure the panels under the seat.
Fit two capture nuts to the underside of the nose fairing, below the headlight gaps.
Fit two capture nuts to the inside of the nose fairing.
Insert one headlight into the nose cone.
Insert four small self-tapping screws into the lugs around the outside of the headlight.
Insert a self tapping screw through the first chimney nut you installed at the front of the nose cone, on the side of the headlight you just installed. Repeat steps 9-12 for the other headlight.
It’s easier to install the screen before you put the nose cone on the bike. Locate all of the rub nuts and insert your screen bolts with nylon washers. Tap them in gently at first, then hand-tighten all of the bolts.
Put a capture nut on the headlight mount bracket before situating the nose cone.
Insert the bolts for your blanking plates or insert your mirrors to hold the nose cone in place. (If you’re fitting mirrors, locate the bracket on the underside of the fairing before bolting the mirror into place).
Insert a self-tapping screw into the chimney bracket on the headlight mount bracket.
Attach the wiring for your headlight.
Fit three chimney bolts along the bottom side of both upper belly panels.
Attach the upper belly panel to the bracket on the frame. You’ll need to remove one of these bolts later but it helps to hold the panel in place while you fit it.
Attach the two upper belly panels together with push rivets. You’ll need 2 push rivets for the bottom of the panels, and one for the top. You may need to drill out the top rivet hole to get a better fit before inserting your rivet.
Insert your indicators into the indicator panel before fixing them to the bike.
Clip the indicator panel into the nose cone. You will hear a *click* when it’s in place properly.
Remove the bolt you attached earlier, put the indicator panel in place, then re-insert the bolt.
Insert a self-tapping screw to hold the panel in place for now. Slide a chimney nut onto the tab beside it.
Attach the final bolt to the lower part of the indicator panel.
Remove the self-tapping screw and position the nose cone infill behind the indicator panel.
Attach the infill panel to the tank frame.
Re-insert the self-tapping screw to hold the infill and indicator panels together.
Insert a self-tapping screw with nylon washer above the indicator.
Insert a bolt with washer on the front of the panel.
Attach two fairing bolts to the tank infill panel to hold it in place.
Remove and reinstall the hex bolt holding the tail unit so that the infill panel is held by it as well.
Slide a chimney nut onto the indicator panel at the bottom.
Slide a chimney nut onto the upper belly panel.
Align the boomerang panel with the indicator panel. There is a lug on the back on the boomerang panel that lines up with the second hole in the indicator panel.
Attach the two topmost fairing bolts, ensuring you use nylon washers.
Screw a self-tapping bolt through the panel on the bottom corner of the boomerang panel.
Fit the lower belly panel into the upper panel as shown in the image below.
Secure the left-hand lower belly panel with four bolts and nylon washers, slotting the kickstand through it. Attach the lower belly panel on the right-hand side.
Insert small, self-tapping screws into the tank fairing. Be sure not to screw these in too tightly, as they can break through the finish and damage the tank. Tighten only until they seat gently.
Slide the two halves of the tank fairing together and insert the remaining self-tapping screws.
Remove the fuel cap and install the tank fairing over the fuel tank. It should slide on quite easily if you haven’t over-tightened the screws.
Secure the front of the tank with a dome nut and washer.
Insert two M6 allen bolts into the rear sides of the tank fairing, then reinsert your fuel cap.
Locate the seat cover on the rear of the tail unit and use an M8 bolt to hold it in place.
Install your seat and lock it in position.
Place the mudguard bracket on top of the mudguard and screw it into place.
Insert the mudguard between the front forks. Use the four original bolts from your mudguard to attach it through the bolt holes on the inside of the forks.
Attach the mudguard to the lower fork using a fairing bolt and nylon washer. Repeat for the other side.
Fix the side bracket into place remembering to locate the speedo cable-stay at the same time. Repeat the process for the bolts on the other side.
And there you have it. Your new Yamaha YZF-R125 Fairing Kit is ready to go.
For more Yamaha YZF-R125 parts, visit Motorcycle Parts Warehouse for any spares, parts, accessories, and components you need.
